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Andean tourism of total coexistence
By: Mariela Jiménez - Vivencial Tours

When I was told that I was going to spent 3 days living with a community in the highlands of Cajamarca, I didn't know what to expect, the only thing that I knew, was that I was ready to experience something different, a new way of doing responsible tourism. 

Community Based Tourism, or Experience Tourism, is an audacious and attractive proposal of sustainable tourism in Peru, that will help to improve the life conditions of the farmers, coexisting and sharing their life style, customs, rites, dances, hopes, vision of their beliefs and the future, but to make a truly full experience you must share your culture and manifestations with them so that it turns into a really cultural exchange experience. 

The highlands of Cajamarca are a new and attractive destination; the best for the ones who are looking for adventure, new experiences and get closer to an Andean community. 
Cajamarca is located in the Andean North mountain range. Has a height of 2,719 m.a.s.l, counts on approximately 90,000 inhabitants and many colonial, pre-Incas sites and ruins of fascinating and exotic beauty and incomparable tourist interest.

There were two options to go to Cajamarca from Lima, the first was by plane (1 hour trip) or by bus (12 hours).

At the Jorge Chavez Airport, we took a flight at 6 AM. and arrived to the charming city of Cajamarca at 7 AM. After been welcomed at Cajamarca City and having breakfast at the hotel, we were taken to "Baños del Inca" "(Inca's Spa). That's where we had a relaxing thermal bath with healing hot water. 

Sulluscocha - Huamán Sanchez Family
As soon as we were done with the bath and ready to leave, a bus took us to Llacanora, which is one of the two communities working with this kind of tourism in Cajamarca (the other one is La Encañada). The 40 minutes that we spent in the van before we reached the house were perfect for enjoying the beauty of the landscape; the guide told us the important tips such rules, Andean customs and farmer's characteristics, before starting a total and fraternal coexistence. Here it is where our great adventure started.

After that, we had a welcome party at our family host house, this time it was Mr. Enrique Huamán, who's been married to Graciela Rojas for over 25 years, Hermelinda and María Eugenia are their daughters, these people keep a very nice house in front of Sulluscocha Lagoon. The name of this lagoon comes from the Quechua word "Shullys", which means "Lagoon that has not been born".

There are two typical rooms at the house for the tourists, both with an excellent view of the lagoon. The rooms have the basics services, a clean room with comfortable beds, clean toilet, purified water, everything you need to have a great, safe, real experience.

At noon, after the lodging and first contacts with the family, we had a shared lunch. Between the Andean people, workers and sheep breeders, lunch time is very important and it is with a strong ritual context. This is one of the most important family meetings that takes place during the day, because it is when all the members sit on the floor around a non-leg table for sharing food while looking into each others eye.

During the day we organized with the family about that activities that we would participate.
For example, we were able to do was to plant some beans at the "Huertas Turisticas", depending on the season, they can be vegetables or fruits, those are the ones that will be used to feed other visitors. 

Around 7 P.M., besides having some food, we talked about the activities we had done during the day, it is when some kind of schedule is made for the next day. This meeting takes place around a warm fire. It was when we were told that Mr. Enrique Huamán used to be as Major at Sulluscocha small village for 8 years, during these term he was in charge of important advances for the community, such as the building of Primary School and other interesting projects and experiences.

Next morning, as soon as the sun rose, we went to pick up the eggs that the hens left ready for us. Meanwhile, Andean ladies were preparing typical breakfast for us.

During the day, "Kollor" archaeological resources and San Nicolás Lagoon were visited, these places belong to Namora District. Along the way, many small villages were seen, an indescribable Andean strength is perceptible, clear waters and dry weather makes it a vivifying place.

Back to the Lagoon, we helped the family in many activities like making sheaves close, lock cattle in the corral, feed the "cuyes" (guinea-pig) and hens. It all made of this journey a non-rest day, however, we concluded there's an incomparable attractiveness on being part of the farmer community.

After dinner we participated in a mystic ritual to honor the sacred "Apus" (hills and mountains), Andean ancestral Gods, we enjoyed shamanism and witchcrafts sessions, that couldn't have been extinguished in the Andean people soul in spite of western religious domination. After this sessions I went to bed thinking that I in a few days I will have to return to my typical way of life, now that I know what truly happiness is.

The next day we got up with the song of the roster, and take the eggs, while the Andean women prepare the typical breakfast, so abundant, so healthy and exquisite. Then we integrated ourselves to the agricultural tasks, like seeding or harvesting the potatoes, the corn, beans, etc. Later I had the opportunity to learn, the farmer's textile and artisan techniques. 

Next day of and time to leave was closer. We had last breakfast with our host. A good bye ceremony is prepared, and it was full of love, fraternity and solidarity that experience could ever bring into our lives.

Llanacora waterfall was our last stop, there we could see two beautiful and amazing water falls.

The trip back to Cajamarca started early afternoon, as soon as we arrived there, we could go to visit the most important churches, the "Cuarto de Rescate de Atahualpa", the most important museums.

Later afternoon, we were taken to the bus station, our trip back to Lima was started, it was a four day trip, full of experiences and knowledge about the city.

Encañada - Requelme Abanto Family
There's another community that you are able to visit, its name is "La Encañada" which is a place characterized by the warm of the Andean and its imposing and beautiful view. Andean told us about their customs and rules that lead this wonderful place. 

Catalino Requelme is the owner of the house where we stayed, he is been married to Vilma Martos for 14 years, this place is surrounded by beautiful eucalyptus forests and different kind of fields. Living in the house we found Vilma's mother, named Rosa Abanto, she's 66 and head of the family, she's always enjoyed textile activities; Alex, Ever, Danicela, Esmeralda and Percila are the kids of the house, they showed us the right way to follow their parents activities.

Lunch time was around noon, it is considered a ritual for sharing and talking, some "Chicharrón de Mote", "Cuy Chactado" and "Café de Cebada" are the most popular when having lunch at Encañada. All these products are made with the same vegetables that people who came before as guests, planted when sharing the farmers activities.

7 PM, it was time for dinner, we heard lots of things about the Abanto's family, it was time to talk about all the experiences we had and to share them with the other tourists visiting Encañada and also we heard many stories and legends from the Andean; it is when the experience becomes a vivifying one.

Early morning at next day, we started picking up the eggs hens left for us, women were outside using the mud oven to bake typical bread; we all agreed there were no better breakfast around, not even the one we had at Cajamarca.

As soon as we had breakfast, the trip to the town started, it was Sunday, so we became part of the cattle fair. It only takes place once a week. After being at the most important places of the town, we started our way back to our hot family's house. There was where we planted the vegetables and beans, which as I mentioned before are gonna be used for the next group coming to Encañada.

This day, lunch menu was different, other typical dishes were tasted, not to say some of them were as delicious as the first ones.

Later afternoon, some of the artisan work was appreciated, textile activities, pottery, wood and iron work, and many other kind of jobs that we could have expected to be extinguished. Before going to bed, it is time to have dinner and share experiences of the day, some myths and legends, stories and past experiences provided from the hosts made of it a great night.

Next day, early morning, Abanto's family prepared a very special good bye breakfast for us, we all thanked them very much for the warm stay, kind attention and specially for keeping Encañada as a great place to spend time in.

Once we arrived to Cajamarca, we had a city tour, some churches and museums were seeing.

Definitely this trip, made a difference, it all was full of experiences and these ones were full of reality. It wasn't the conventional trip that you are taken to a luxury 5 stars hotel and you just listen to a guide while taking photos. In this trip, I learned about an Andean family life style and they let me had a role in their lives. Sharing those days with this community was an amazing experience, they always had an smile in their faces, treated me with respect and affection and enjoyed to teach me about their culture, legends and life.

 
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Cajamarca Travel Guide - See also:
 
 
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